Smart-Casual Derbies
If stuck for inspiration with Derbies, think utilitarian. They’re a shoe originally built for marching through mud, so pieces with similar DNA are always going to work.
Few fabrics say hardworking like denim, and that goes for trucker jackets as well as jeans. Trench coats and chinos, which both got their start in the military before being enlisted into civilian life, look great too.
Even in a smart-casual outfit, there’s room for maneuver. Suede Derbies will appear more laid-back than leather alternatives, as will anything with a contrast or heavy-duty sole.
How To Wear Smart-Casual Derby Shoes
Casual Derbies
Anywhere trainers would work, you can wear a Derby (although probably not the gym). They’re more comfortable than Oxfords, courtesy of that looser lacing and chunkier sole, which makes them ideal if you’re tramping around.
Plus, being leather and higher off the pavement, they’re also a far better wet-weather shoe than a pair of box-fresh white kicks.
Chinos and a T-shirt? Sub-in a Derby. Jeans and a cardigan? Sub-in a Derby. Trousers and an over shirt? You get the idea…
How To Wear Casual Derby Shoes
The Best Brands For Derbies
Tricker’s
One of Britain’s most storied shoemakers, Tricker’s has been going since 1829. But the firm is far from traditional. Sure, they’ll do you a sleek pair of black Derbies, but you can also get them in handsome pebble-grain leather on a crepe sole.
Tricker’s Derby Shoes
ASOS
Good shoes don’t have to cost an arm and the leg they’re supposed to go on. Case in point: pretty much anything you can find in the Derbies section of e-tailer ASOS.
ASOS Derby Shoes
Common Projects
The king of minimalist kicks recently turned its hand to smarter shoes, too. The result is, unsurprisingly, a minimalist Derby that’s arguably even more versatile than the label’s now-iconic sneakers.
Common Projects Derby Shoes
Grenson
Northampton shoemaker Grenson has turned out Derbies since 1875 and it offers a style for every man, whether you fancy a chunky-as-hell triple welt or a sleek work shoe.
Grenson Derby Shoes
Office
The British shoe shop’s in-house brand might have a slightly outdated name (‘Ask the Missus’), but if you can avoid anyone seeing the label, its well-made Derbies feel thoroughly modern and punch well above their price tag.
Office Derby Shoes
Topman
The high-street giant does an excellent line in the unexpected. You’ll find oversized soles and interesting leathers, but at a price that lets you dip a toe in something new.
Topman Derby Shoes
Ami
French designer Alexandre Mateusz makes the interesting easy to wear. His Derbies are subtly different – think D-ring eyelets and commando soles – which make them novel, but never novelty.
Ami Derby Shoes
Marks & Spencer
A British institution, Marks & Spencer is likely the place you bought your first suit and is also a good spot to find shoes that go with it. Unfussy, well-made and extremely affordable – what else would you expect?
Marks & Spencer Derby Shoes
Dr. Martens
There are few other styles that look as good on 1960s punks as every peacock at Pitti Uomo today. The former’s footwear brand of choice, Dr. Martens, is still turning out rebellious Derbies with added attitude decades later.
Dr. Martens Derby Shoes
Clarks Originals
It may have been Prada that spearheaded the move to make formal shoes fun, but proving you can’t improve on a classic, Clarks has been turning out solid examples of Derbies for more than 190 years, complete with its signature crepe sole.
Clarks Originals Derby Shoes
Officine Creative
Put a British style in Italian hands, and you’ll get a daintier spin on the Derby, which comes with a lived-in look right out of the box. The kind of smart shoes you could wear with a suit, or on the beach. Probably.
Officine Creative Derby Shoes
John Lobb
Each pair of John Lobb shoes goes through 190 steps, a process that doesn’t come cheap. However, for a pair of Derbies that go with everything you already own – and will outlast everything you own – they’re worth the investment.